Amsterdam in Winter

back from 10 days in Amsterdam, a city that is really my second home after London. my father has his music shop called 'Palm Guitars' on the banks of the Amstel neat the flea market and I often watch over the 'emporium' while he takes trips for business and pleasure.. always returning with another pile of curiosities.. the shop is like nothing else on earth, crammed floor to ceiling with all manner of music instruments. the business started on the old flea market 20 + years ago selling handmade leather bags and belts, Afghan carpets and random things he picked up on voyages. moved into the shop about 10 years ago and then the Internet came along and a whole new group of customers appeared. the shop now attracts all kinds of musicians and collectors, what's cool is that unlike recorded music, the musical instrumentsmarket is not harmed by the net, in fact the demand in niche markets is only intensified.

this time it was a welcome escape from the hyper commercial Xmas which permeates London, more focus on 'buy buy buy' then 'love love love'.. the difference between the euro and pound sink in, while London drains your wallet at an unbelievable rate, in Amsterdam you can still eat, travel and visit places without breaking the bank. the city retains it's fairytale charm, and will always do so. fortunate to escape the German bombs (apparently Hitler saw Amsterdam and was so taken by it's beauty he called off the bombing).. Rotterdam was not so lucky, although is is now considered one of the most innovative places for modern architecture. many old Amsterdamers will moan that it's not like it was back in the day (but then that's kinda the point no?). in the 60's the city centre became a hippy traveller mecca, where all passed through on the way to India or some far flung place.. many never made it passed a'dam due to the freely available drugs and squat style living.. in fact many are probably still there.

Holland is built for the bicycle, this alone gives the streets a sense of peace and tranquility. as you cruise around silently the bike paths and other cyclists flow seamlessly.. the traffic is often heavy (Amsterdam is one of the most densely populated cities in the world). anyone trying to drive in the centre will have a tough time, especially if they find a parking place (almost 20 euros per day). this creates a less hectic vibe, almost every Amsterdammer has a bike (700,000 at least).

the centre area of the city is dated from the 17th century and one of the largest in the world, the narrow streets are built around the main central canals (Singel, Herengracht, Kaisergracht, Princengracht and the Amtsel). you can't help but feel connected to the past centuries as you roll over the canal bridges and slip in and out of the passages.

it's a city divided between business and tourism, both of which bring in the money. the central Dam Square (which is incredibly dull), the museums (world reknowned) and red light district (not as sleazy as you mght think) keep the tourists happy, so you won't find many wandering around the Jordann (old residential neighbourhood west of the centre), if they are there it's usually because they are lost. the Jordann is crammed full of art galleries (often 'ateliers' or studios of the artists who live above), lovely cafes, curious independent shops and markets.. it's one of the best areas to wander in the world. check for Distortion Records, Paradox Coffeeshop, a multitude of cozy cafes and the old comics & film posters shops... easy to spend money but equally fun to browse! the Jordann was originally a working class area and home to countless strikes an demos if centuries gone by.. now it's moved up to house some of the most expensive and desirable housing in Holland.. still retains the old charm though..

Amsterdam has a fantastic free newspaper (English language) called 'The Weekly' which observes the city through delightfully tinted glasses... event listings, articles and reviews sit alongside humorous views of the city.

some restaurants and eateries I would recommend

Green Planet - lovely vegetarian, small and perfectly formed. check the specials for soups and drinks.. the menu is not extensive but should have something to please everyone. they also have lovely organic wines and beers
Spuistraat 122 (625 8280

Vlieegnde Schotel (flying saucer)
huge portions, very cozy and serving proper filling veggis grub in the Jordann. there's a resident cat who lounges around on the furniture. it's not a place to rush your meal, as in many dutch restaurants the speed and efficiency takes second place to atmosphere and chilling time.
Nwe Leliestraat 162-168

Moas falafel - delicous and cheap takeaway option, you fill your own from the veg and sauces on display. also quick and friendly.
can be found on the Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein or Dam Square, open 10am-11pm

markets are plentiful.. antiques, books, records, flowers and junk.. the flea market is nothing like it was, more expensive and less stalls make for rather dull browsing.. you can still find the odd nice jumper or jacket but you're better off in the cities second hand shops..

more to come on amsterdamage and Rotterdam..